Bulbs for Angels

winter cold temps

Gardening — Mon, 26 Dec 2011 01:50:56 +0000

The early cold has really been with us a long time this year and showing frost burn on the tender plants. But it is also a good thing to provide that dormancy needed for the cold hardy plants. An amazing year with blooms already happening. The camellias are ahead of typical bloom time this year. Wintersweet has been in bloom for a month already. It has been dry and we need the rains, but the good side to all this is that we have dry weather to do gardening chores. Clean up and pruning are made easier with dry ground. And planting is also easier since we are not working in muddy conditions. In planting, it is important to water in new plants very well. This initial watering helps settle the soil so plants can begin growing into the native soil site immediately.
I have already seen frost burn on citrus. The nursery is in a cold location now. I am also looking to move once again. Too much negativity at this site.
Planting bareroot will soon begin. And all spring bulbs should have been planted by now. Trees and shrubs can all be planted now and until spring. (wait if they are tender species, however, until spring frosts are past)
It has been a very good year for chrysanthemums. I have offered the hard to find spider and quill form bloomers. You just never see them around anymore.
There is going to be a big international magnolia conference in the county next Mar. 2, 2012 and I will be one of the guest speakers. If you have any magnolia questions, this is the place to be!
All the early bloomers will likely be later this year due to the amount of cold temps we are having. The Chinese new year is early this year and so blooming branches will be in demand and probably not available unless they plants are put into a greenhouse. (it is in Jan this year, very early) and with the cold, it could be like last year when the late period of cold delayed blossoming of the typical plants like flowering quince and peach and the less common Prunus mume/ flowering plum/apricot.
Continue to water well all the plants in the garden. Dryness coupled with cold is not good for keeping the plant healthy. It is especially important for species that have set their buds and bloom in spring, like camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons. Dryness of the plant now will be a critical factor in the quality of the spring bloom. If the plant dries out, then so will those flower buds and you will not have a good bloom later!
The winter rains will come, just maybe late this year.
Remember that garden sanitation is very important at this time of year also. Removal of all harboring places for insects and their eggs, and diseases will make next year’s gardening problems kept at a minimum!

Fall Planting Time/ order your Bareroot

Gardening — Sun, 18 Sep 2011 05:25:33 +0000

Now is one of the best times to plant. The soil is warm for good root growth and there is ample top growth. Many things can be planted now and they will be established by spring to take advantage of the growth spurt at that time. Additionally, many nurseries (LIKE MINE) are having a fall sale.
Another thing to remember is to order bareroot plants NOW, before they run out. Bareroot is one of the most economical and wise ways to get plants. Many choice varieties are available at very reasonable prices in this way. Fruit trees are an especially attractive choice since you can get many uncommon varieties if ordered like this, rather than hope your nursery still has some of the really choice goodies left by the time you visit them when they are growing in containers.
Some flowering goodies at this time of year….Japanese anemones in many varieties, thalictrum(meadow rue), rabdosia longituba, spider chrysanthemums(I have some coming and even a few very early ones! Fall color is happening already on many plants, some maples, viburnums, etc. are showing bright reds and otther fall leaf colors. Flowering gingers are coming into their own now. A few early ones have finished, but the majority are budding and blooming now and will continue for some time, into winter if they are protected, and until hard frost if they are in the open landscape/garden. Their lush tropical appeal is irresistable to many, it brings back memories of their visits to the tropics! Flowers have lucious fragrances in many cases, and I have 3 dozen cvs. from which to choose, tall and dwarf, many colors, and even variegated foliages. Some are also edible. Flower colors include whites, pinks, yellows, oranges, and reds. Fragrance is divine!

Garden Themes: Coordinating your plantings

Gardening — Wed, 24 Aug 2011 01:55:59 +0000

As gardeners, we all enjoy finding a new treasure, buying it and bringing it home to plant in our most favored spot in the garden. If you think about the cultural needs of that plant before you buy, or better yet, a master plan (idea) of how you want your landscape to look when finished, you will be very pleased with any purchase and have little worry about it not surviving and doing well with you. Several design factors are considered here. I know some people are intimidated by the mere mention of the words design and planning, but you need not be. It is as simple and casual as defining your likes, then thinking about them as they relate to your garden space. Of course, some of us have that flare for color, texture, and overall combinations to achieve that memorable effect, but this is easy once you just be patient with yourself and try plant combinations (just move one container plant next to another that you like and see how they both look together in close quarters.) You can expand that simple action to the overall garden landscape and you will find it more enjoyable than daunting. All those considerations like when a plant blooms, fragrance, fruiting characteristics, foliage colors and textures will not seem such a big thing to deal with if you just place one plant next to another. This simple action also can lead to much more dramatic landscapes if you use MANY plants of one type together for a bold display. Think of a simple thing, daffodils. Now if you plant one it is nice, but looks skimpy, if you plant 1/2 dozen it looks better, especially if planted in a clump instead of a small row(that looks poor), and then if you plant a dozen or dozens of them, Now you have a big display and an eye catching planting. The same principle applies to all plants. One is not enough, a few will catch the eye, but many give a bold, dramatic impression! This design technique can be applied to any theme, formal to informal, eclectic to more traditional. You can even go with a tropical theme or the dignified appearance of conifers or bold effects of large foliages. Green is the basic backround color, then think of blues, the color of the sky, also a backround color. All other colors can give pause in the garden. They can be used to draw attention or hide/screen an unattractive view. If you plan where you want to have things, your final landscape will look more ‘finished’ than one which has not had this consideration. Many designers think of ourdoor spaces as ‘rooms’ and when thought of as such, it becomes much easier to coordinate any thing you do…. colors, textures, branches/trunks, fragrances, etc. if you add hardscape like paths, steps, sitting furniture, water features, lighting, the effects can be dramatic. And if you are aware of how those features affect your plantings, and work together, you can achieve great memorable effects to ‘wow’ your visitors, or provide that tranquil niche for your own personal enjoyment.
The world of plants is vast. You can be drought tolerant, and sun or shade, or water loving, or alpine, the freedom of choice depends on you. And when you decide on that, your plant selections will be much easier, as you will just be fitting something into your garden ‘theme’ and it will look natural there as well.
Now in the late summer/early fall we have the grace of many flowers and foliages to give us pleasure. Abutilons, roses, many perennials and annuals, bulbs, fruits on trees, and the vast variety of foliages are to be enjoyed now. You can choose from sun/heat loving cacti and succulents to ferns with lush foliages. Shady plantings can offer the lushness of Japanese maples with hostas, ferns, hydrangeas(the ones for shade). There is great variety from which to choose and ENJOY. I particularly like the bush clovers (Lespedeza spp. and cvs. of L. thunbergii ) as well as Indigofera incarnata(I. decora) in pink or white, looking like a miniature wisteria bush!
There are early chrysanthemums, and many daisy flowers(composites), Asters, shasta daisy, helenium, helianthemum, coreopsis, rudbeckia, echinacea, and so on, from which to choose. The Fall anemones, meadow rue(thalictrum), aconitum (monkshood) are some of the others in the great ranunculus family which can add color to foundation plantings.
I usually prefer some woody plants to give structure to the garden. Trees and shrubs offer a permanence to any landscape and seasonal changes. The herbaceous plants give additional interest to that backround foilDon’t over look berries for the garden as well. Ornamental fruits, berries, and seed pods can all be showy/interesting for the garden landscape. They can also be used as cuts for the vase, providing line material that you cannot buy (cheaply) from the florist.
To begin, peruse magazines, pictures of gardens you like, then take pen/pencil in hand and sketch out on paper the dimensions of your planned space. Then it becomes easy to see how your space will work with the needs you wish to have addressed.(this is simply jotting down how you want to use the space), and what views, to enhance or screen off. And now you have your basic ‘room’ of outdoor space to plan and plant with your favorites! A garden is everchanging and as things grow you may love them, or decide to change them out, or trim them back, up, etc. And that enjoyment of YOUR garden is so refreshing to the soul, rejuvenating your energy. Those rewards of gardening are priceless. Come to see many interesting and unusual plants at the nursery to enhance your garden! I like low maintenance and easy care, as well as superior plant choices. There are time tested wonderfully proven plants as well as a sampling of the newest things. All plants have something to offer, but I choose from among the better selections, after all, who wants a garden planted with the same things as your neighbor(as when often happens from those that frequent to big box stores). We all have in the budget a ‘special’ purchase for the garden, be it for ourselves or as a gifted item. That ‘certain special plant’ that we can splurge on just once and have it for our lifetime.

Late summer color

Gardening — Wed, 17 Aug 2011 00:30:26 +0000

Late summer’ s garden still can have surprises to interest even the most experienced gardener. Take for instance the amazingly beautiful and yet delicate appearing bush clover (Lespedeza thunbergii cvs.) These graceful sub shrubs offer arching stems, clothed with dainty, delicate appearing 3 part leaves and towards the ends of those stems are a profusion of small pea shaped flowers. The typical color is magenta, a wonderful surprise for the garden that is showy and eye catching. There are also rare white cvs. and pinks. This is a tough easy care plant, sun to part shade, average cultural needs and the roots are perennial, the tops die down and shouwl be trimmed back in winter/late fall. (*Another easy care, low maintenace plant that does wonderful things in the garden and you never see it planted much!)

Golden Rods (Solidago spp, and cvs.) are those easily recognizable perennials that give the golden yellow tones to many gardens and fields where they have naturalized(some are native). Hybridists have worked with this group to give us a wide array of plant sizes and floral cluster forms. Most are in yellow tones, varying from sulphur yellow to golden yellows. They are a staple for perennial beds/borders and associated with shrubs. Easy care, often drought tolerance, and no deer, gophers, few pests are attributes of these plants. Sizes range from 18″ to 4-5 ft. and clusters vary as well, most being approx 12″ across. I have the cv. ‘Strictus’ with upright narrow clusters, quite feather like and taller. It is a wonderful filler for cut flowers in a vase. Sun to part shade, regular care/water and they are very perennial and dependable plants.

Japanese anemones are beginning to bloom now. Most are under the old name catch all of Anemone x hybrida, sometimes you will find as A. hupehensis japonica, and others such as A. tegmentosum, A. robustissima, A. vitifolia robustissima. All have mounds of attractively cut furry soft foliage from which arise graceful upright stems which bear the flowers. Flowers are single or double(tather semidouble) with narrower petals(actually sepals) giving a daisy like apperance. Color range has been expanded to include whites, pinks in many shades, and rose reds. There are some purple tinged forms as well. Average soil, part shade to full sun(more water if planted here) and good drainage will produce spreading clumps that are permanent and dependable.

These are favorites, there are many other perennials to provide with color at this time.

visit a the nursery to see many more of these.

Hydrangeas: a sampler for sun or shade

Gardening — Sun, 14 Aug 2011 04:15:51 +0000

Hydrangeas are easy care staples of many garden landscapes. Their ease of culture and profusion of summer blooms are reason enough for growing them, but the great array of choices can be overwhelming. Basically these are shrubs for sun or shade. Most commonly grown are cvs. of Hydrangea macrophylla, a shade and moisture loving species. The flower clusters are of two basic types: the lacecap and mophead. Lacecaps have larger steril flowerrs surrounding small central fertile flowers and mopheads have almost entirely sterile flowers giving a fuller appearance to the cluster/ The sun loving species H. paniculata grandiflora and the several cvs. have conical clusters. Conical clusters are also apparent in H. quercifolia, the oak leaf hydrangeas. So the gardener basically has a choice of a sun loving hydrangea or a shade loving plant. Moisture is a big need to grow these well (the latin Hydro = water, water loving alludes to this need) Good draninage is also a requirement. Basic use in the landscape is for dramatic effects of the flowers. The blooms last a long time(several months is not unusual) and when the flowers begin to age, they become papery and dry, and can be used for dry material later on. So you have a basic choice of a sun lover or a shade lover, and lacecap or mophead (mainly for shady areas) or conical clusters, (mainly for sunnier exposures).

Recent hybridizing efforts have yielded repeat blooming in several cvs. as well as picoteed individual flower color patterns. The color pallet is mainly white, chartreuse, pink – red, blues – purples, and the new picotees (which come in reds or blue tones with white edges to each flower in the cluster/ also lacecap and mophead forms here)

With the conical H. p. g. cvs., we have new pink cvs. which are a nice addition to the range of bloom characteristics. Pinky Winky is a wonderful new dramatic cv. with huge (12-16″) clusters that begin green-chartreuse, open white, then mature to pink, while the tip of the cluster stays white, giving a skyrocket effect to the blooms! (come to see this one at the nursery to believe it! and they are on sale too!) Limelight is a classic bloomer and in chartreuse, people gravitate toward it, put their noses into the blooms to catch the fragrance! And the color goes with everything! (chartreuse is one of the color neutrals for the garden! it goes well with everything!) H. quercifolia also comes in double cvs. but the clusters are so heavy they droop. This is unattractive on a young small plant, but on a mature specimen, it is quite dramatic! Snowflake, Harmony, are some of the doubles.

For ‘other’ hydrangeas, try H. aspera (H. villosa, H. sargentiana) Which has huge rough ly hairy leaves, and blue lacecap flowers. It’s a bigger shrub also, getting well over 10 ft. H. arborescens is a classic, soft white domes of flowers on lime to mint green soft foliage, it can take a lot of sun also. H. serrata is like a small sized H. macrophylla. I like it quite a lot. The more diminutive clusters are charming and the leaves seem more in scale to containers.

The vining species are dramatic if you want your hydrangeas up in the air above you! H. anomala petiolaris(H. petiolaris), H. semannii / it’s evergreen too!), and the related Schizophragma (Japanese hydrangea vine) is a truly wonderful thing for any garden.

With all hydrangeas, the best way to use them is in a big bold display. A single plant in a container is fine, but group them in 3s, or better yet, in 5s + and you will have a WOW impact in your garden/landscape! Grouping these makes a statement that is recognized by even the most ungardening citizen! you just can;t miss the impact of the big floral display! A friend once mentioned to me after I told her that a nursery grower friend sold all of his plants… to a designer/landscape architect. And they were planted in a long row along a driveway, lined with Cornus kousa cvs. Now that is a vision to remember! Late spring with the dogwoods, then summer with the Pinky Winky hydrangea paniculatas. WOW< BIG WOW! and maintenance is almost zero! Just plant, water, and watch them grow/ That seasonal display(almost all year) is going to be better and better each year as the plants mature. maintenance is once a year to clean up the hydrangeas(just trim back in winter) and dogwoods need NO pruning whatsoever! I’d love to dry by tha lucky home to see those beauties!

Container Displays

Gardening — Thu, 04 Aug 2011 16:52:26 +0000

These few recommendations will give you amazingly beautiful containers for your ourdoor areas, patios, garden landscapes. The same principles used to make these containers will also work well for and ‘in the ground landscaping! First think about what kind of effect you are trying to get. (If you are not familiar with this kind of thought process, just look at any gardening magazine and see what pictures you like with container subjects, or plant groupings. Then go and visit a nursery, just do some browsing and see what catches your eye, gets, your attention…. in other words, gravitate toward plants that you like. Pay attention to colors (flowers and leaves) and the combinations (complementary colors as well as contrasting colors). The next step is an enjoyable one, choose one plant you like and bring it along with you to see what another plant you like looks like next to the first choice. That is the basic way to compost any grouping of plants in regards to color and textures. The details about each plant can be answered by your nursery specialist. That will help you make your decisions and narrow down the choices. Additionally, do not forget to ask about other plant choices that may not be in stock/inventory at the nursery at that time you visit, or that bloom at other times of the year! Many more choices will broaden your perspectives when you ask/do these simple things.

Some tips on putting together a wonderful display. Find a first choice that pleases you, then build the compostition around that plant. That is done simply with putting another plant side by side to your first choice, but also think of the cultural needs, sun or shade or both, etc? water needs, etc. Those factors will help you plant several plants together that have similar needs and so will perform well together.

Some examples: for sun, Cordyline ‘Festival’ with any of the variegated canna hybrids (choosing dwarf cvs. will give a smaller sized combo, larger cvs. will be bolder and create huge impact.)

adding things like Aloe ‘Johnsons Hybrid’, Lobellia laxiflora, Calendrinia spectabilis, etc. will give you a very long display of blooms to complement that wonderful foliage effect.

For shade, the many Hostas will give dramatic ‘WOW’ impact. Bold foliages in blues, yellows, greens, chartreuse, whites, and their different textures and leaf shapes, provide dramatic impact, but then they also bloom! in hues of blues, purples, some being also fragrant. Larger ferns (western sword, chain, etc. even small yound tree ferns) group well with these, and shade perennials like Astilbe, Aquilegia(columbines), Thalictrum, Dicentra, etc. will give you seasonal colors.

For graceful effects, Dierama and Hakonechloa are hard to beat, as are many of the grasses, *I particularly like Muelenbergia dumosa and Stipa ramossisma(pillar of smoke, purple smoke that is!)

For seasonal impact, the many spring and summer bulbs give a bold, eye catching effect, especially if you use one cv. or possibly 2 en masse.

Abutilons with salvias are also a dramatic combination, You get lush foliage effects with a profusion of blossoms! Sun to shade.

There are so many choices, and they are all fun and pleasing, especially so since you built the display with your choices to make it personal!

Almost any plant can be used in containers, even many trees as youngsters. So your choices are almost limitless.

Plant at least 2 kinds of plants in each combo container. Alternately, you can plant singly in individual containers, and group those containers to make a nice group display! Advantages to this method is that you can move waining performers out of the display and add in something else just coming into peak bloom!

Visiting a nursery to see what is available is key, that will give you all kinds of ideas when you start experimenting with plant combinations together. The dtails of culture are minimal after you make your selections!

Best thing during this process is to have fun, and you gain much satisfaction from the enjoyable work you have done!

Designer Tips for your garden

Gardening — Tue, 02 Aug 2011 07:43:07 +0000

All gardeners like to have color in their gardens. Not all of us are fortuneate enough to have that inherent sense of design and color to make our selections of plants really stand out and be stunning to our garden visitors. Here are a couple tips to help. first of all, concentrate the color. This is a simple technique. Instead of using only one plant for color, use at least a few to make a bolder splash of color. This works especially well with annuals, perennials, and bulbs, but also with low growing shrubs, dwarf conifers. Also group that color into clumps which have the effect of intensifying the color you are using. Just think how memorable a clump or bed of flowers are in your mind’s eye, and then think of only one plant… a dramatic difference is observed. This is more obvious when you see a planting of spring bulbs or herbaceous plants, planted in a row of single plants… it just looks skimpy. But those same numbers of plants, planted in a clump or group, now creates a mass of color which catches the eye of any passers by.

Another big tip which many professional landscapers, designers, landscape architects, etc. use is to use plants in combinations which contrast (for bold color splashes) or complement(enhancing the main color and it’s neighboring colors on the color wheel) to create a braoder spectrum of a certain chosen color scheme. Flowers and foliage can be used in conjunction here, since there are so many leaves which are colored, sometimes as showy as the blooms of other plants. I particularly like foliage effects since they can last for a very long time. (not including fall foliage colors which can be very brief)

Lets take for example some of the many Heuchera and Heucherella cvs. and plants that can contrast with them(foliage and/or flowers) These low growing perenials are easy care, yet much of their charm lies in the colors of their bright foliage. Almost and endless array of color choices and combinations in the leaves alone. When you add a complementary or contrasting plant next to it, the colors show themselves off to advantage.

I know this can be intimidating to the new gardener, but use a tip that the most seasoned gardeners, horticulturists, use. Just put a pot of one plant you like next to another plant you like, and see how they play off each other, observing colors, textures, and heights. That is what professionals do if they find a plant new to them! They try it out right at the nursery! This works for any plant combination. Big or little plants, herbaceous or woody plants, deciduous or evergreens, all work well when tried in this simple easy fashion. Again, the traditional color combinations are a beginning, but do not limit yourself to just those. Try combinations you like, or those you thing might work well together….often the do just that!

This works especially well in mixed container plantings.

A nice combination of plants is Heucherella Yellowstone Falls with blue morning glories! or red/crimson, scarlet morning glories. Another is to use some of the double pink or red morning glories with Heucherella Redstone Falls. The various different shades of ered work well together.

For shrubs, try Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora ‘Pinky Winky’ with evergreen ground covers like Disporopsis fuscata, or hellebores, or ferns or even Japanese anemones (Anemone hybrida cvs.)

Or you may wish to try it with Lorpetalum ‘Purple Majesty’

Hostas with Japanese maples is a classic combination (and they grow together in the native habitat as well !

Any of the ferny shade perennials will also work well. Aquilegia(coloumbines), Thalictrum(meadow rue), Aruncus and Cimicifuga as well as astilbes in this combination give a ferny, or lacey effect to the planting. You can use shade hydrangeas to substitute in shady spots.

Native iris hybrids with manzanitas or flowering currants(Ribes sanguineum glutinosum cvs. R. speciosum, R. malvaceum) are other candidates for this plant combo in full sun- partial shade.

Hydrangeas for sun “Pinky Winky”

Gardening — Mon, 01 Aug 2011 15:20:18 +0000

Most gardeners know the tried and true hydrangea for summer color. blooming for months and suitable for drying. There are, however, hydrangeas which can be planted in sun and will thrive and produce huge amounts of easy care (and low maintenance) blossoms for the garden and vase. These are mostly cvs. of Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora (the pee gee hydrangeas). Ease of culture makes them popular, and hybridists have been busy working with this group to produce a nice array of cvs. suitable for many landscape situations and needs. They can funcion as screens, specimens, accent plantings, and even in containers, (best to use the dwarf cvs, unless you are going for BIG spectacular effects!) Here you will find hydrangeas with a different type flower cluster, they have conical clusters of blooms. Blooming is profuse and culture very easy. Maintenance is minimal as well, you only prune once a year! And that pruning can control size of the plant. If never pruned, they can reach the size of a lilac bush, perhaps 12-15 ft tall. but if you prune, you can keep them to 4 ft, most people leave them to grow a bit bigger, perhaps 6-8 ft. Pruning actually helps encourage vigorous growth, which has the effect of producing large flower clusters. Flower clusters can be up to 16″ long! Pinky Winky is a standout among a showy croud. Here you get buds in chartreuse, opening white, aging to pink and VERY spectacular. They are fragrant as well. As the blooms age, they turn a wonderful pink and the tip of the cluster remains white, giving a sky rocket effect to the plant and blooms! Fall gives nice leaf colors in yellows, tans, and even some orange. They are not mentioned as having fall color, but they do. Pruning is simple, just cut way back to near the base of each year;s growth, leaving a few nodes to grow and bloom the following sunner, You must do this before any growth starts, as pruning too late will delay blossoming. Cut branches can be conditioned over night in deep buckets of water, then arrange them in the vase after that conditioning. Additionally, you can dry the blooms for later use. Wait until the individual blossoms mature to a papery consistency, then cut with long stems and hang upside down until thoroudhly dry. Some people sprinkle with spray adhesive and apply glitter fo additional interest and effects.

Other cvs. and species to try: ‘Lime Light’ is a chartreuse cv. Wonderful and color neutral to go with everything.

‘Little Lamb’ is dwarf, so will work nicely in containers and any smaller landscape situations.

There are many other cvs. Most come in whites.

Other species: H. aspera, H. sargentii, H. arborescens and cvs. H villosa and cvs.

Sun, ample water, rich soil(well drained) / adding organic matter, humus, compost will enhance growth. Fertilizer if soil is poor(acid food). These are all low maintenance plants, you only touch them once a year(pruning in winter) and that is it! And they produce some of the boldest floral displays summer can offer any garden!

Summer Pruning

Gardening — Mon, 01 Aug 2011 05:51:17 +0000

Summer is a good time to prune plants that have bloomed in spring, especially trees and shrubs, if you have not done so immediately after the blossoming in spring. If you do this now, there is still time for growth to ripen and set buds for next year’s bloom display if done now. Regular pruning of any misplaced branches, dead or otherwise obviously diseased/damaged wood, shold be done as soon as noticed, anytime. A guideline for getting bushy growth on Abutilons is that if pruned during active growth, they will immediately replace the wood removed from the pruning effort with vigorous growht and abundant blooms almost immediately now. This is a great way to clean up a leggy plant and invigorate it with strong new young growth. Abutilons bloom on new wood, so any resulting new growth will bloom abundantly. Remember to water well and also fertilize regularly to provide the nuturients that will be needed for all that new growth.

Pinching tip growth can be done on all kinds of plants to make them more compact. Chrysanthemums are a prime example. If left untouched, they become leggy and flop over. However, if pinched regularly (every 5-6 leaves of growth, then they become more compact and make more stems, which also increases the amound ot blossoms you get later in fall.Pinching tip growth works for any plant. Trees, and shrubs, bushy perennials. vines, many succulents

Fruit trees benefit very much from summer pruning. Especially if you practise summer pruning to reduce size of tree. Pruning now will control excessive growth and make the plant bloom younger, as well as making it more compact. Summer pruning of fruit trees also reduces size of the tree. You will not need ladders, etc. if you restrit height of tree when it is a sapling. And not to mention that pruning during the growing season allows pruning cuts to heal over before winter. Several things happen when you summer prune a fruittree. reduction of mature dimension of tree, height and width of canopy. You encourage earlier/younger bearing since tree growth is directed into fruiting wood, rather than larger tree size. All pruning cuts will heal over by winter and thus help to prevent disease and insects from entering the plant through open wounds.

Basic tips for removing the old flowering wood of flowering season plants is that you reinvigorate the plant(pruning stimulates growth) and you get much more wood which will bear next years flowers in abundance. (if you did not prune, then you get some growth which flowers sparingly compared to a regularly pruned plant)

Aftercare of the plants pruned should consist of good cultural practises. Watering well those pruned plants will insure that resulting new growth will flush out vigorously. Fetilizing is also beneficial to provide nutrients to support all that new growth. Remember to water the plant well before application, and well again after application so as not to burn the roots.

If your fruit trees have matured their fruit crop, then now is the time to clean out the old fruits that may still be attached to the tree, and also to do a general clean up of the area around the tree to eliminate hiding places for insects and diseases. Pick up fallen fruit and dispose of it.

A general cleaning up of faded bloom stalks, dead leaf and stem debris / cutting out old or damaged wood is a wise practise.

Pinch plants like blueberries to get them more compact. This will be of most benefit on sucker growth to prevent legginess and make the plant more compact.

Dramatic colorful plantings

Gardening — Thu, 28 Jul 2011 05:18:45 +0000

As all good gardeners know, the most memorable plantings are those with outstanding color combinations. These can be made up of flowers, foliage colors and textures. If you plant for a long season of blooms, then your initial investment of time will be well paid for in the long run. You will get a long season(s) of colorful blooms for your efforts. This can be done in the garden with plants planted close to each other, or also in containers, which has the additional benefit of being able to move the plants to best advantage and also move out of sight when they are pas their peak. In selecting your plant combinations, remember to use the color wheel for inspiration if you are not versed in choosing color combos. This will give you a grat start if you are just beginning. Color contrasts are showy, and color complements are more harmonizing, being closer to the one main color choice. Remember also that you can group containers for additional effects and dramatic plantings. Plants in the ground are less mobile, but you can still add additional plants to the main planting for added interest. Trees and shrubs offer the long term foundation structure for any garden/landscape planting. Choose your additional plants with those main plants in mind, remembering when they bloom, what color, and then the leaf texture and colors. Container plantings follow the same guideline principles, and you are actually freer to experiment since the containers can be moved if certain ones with a particular color scheme do not please you as much as you wish. These design principles apply to all plantings in all exposures, sun/shade, drought tolerant/ample watering, fine texture/bold texture, and so on. First thing is to go visit a nursery and see what catches your eye, what YOU like… then begin to make group plantings around that first selection. Then stand back and observe your efforts and decide if those choices please you. If they do, continue the efforts, if not, then simply change your plan and try other choices.

Now is the time for many blooms. The many ‘daisy’ type blooms are abundant, there are other floral types and many colors. Don’t forget foliage, both in texture and also in colors. Remember chartreuse is a color neutral, all other colors go well with it. White is another and is useful to bring light into dark areas. Remember the old color classic combinations, red and green, red and white, blue and gold, pink and purple, green and yellow, orange, reds, and yellows for a warm feeling, the blue tones and pinks, and whites for a cooling effect.

Japanese Anemones are setting buds now and will be in bloom soon. They are graceful upright abundant bloomers of easy care. Thalictrum/meadow rue and columbine/aquilegia are airy and graceful, ferns give a verdant note, calylophus drummondii, some of the newer cvs of osteospurmum, helianthus(sunflowers in their great abundance) , helenium, heuchera, daylilies, true liles, salvias, and so much more offer an endless selction of wonderful blooming plants. Don’t forge dwarf selections of shrubs and trees to provide additional interest to any planting, in the ground or in a pot. Conifers too, offer almost endless variety and there are MANY dwarfs from which to choose as well.

A tip in any planting is to limit your colors in the combination plantings. Too many colors can look busy and confusing. A choice narrowed to perhaps 2 or 3 colors can be dramatic and stunning.